It is safe to say that contemporary codes of serious dress — black tie, white tie, semi-formal — are be-coming as loose as a bachelor after a few slugs of Mirabeau, and although we’re avid supporters of those that push or even rip up the eveningwear envelope, we’re also, by and large, sticklers for a few traditional truths.When it comes to wristwear, a department of style as regimented as a movement within a Swiss chronometer, we like to keep things simple. Of course, we have a deep appreciation for detailed moonphases, lumed hands that glow like starshine on a clear evening, and faces with more ornamentation than Elton John’s living quarters, but, for events when the tux is given a dust down, our default is always to return to an elegant, polished dress watch that’s defined by its slender profile (meaning it can sit comfortably under a cuff), unfussy dial (so as not to allow one to be uncouth throughout the evening by toying with complications and functions) and leather strap (fabric is too synonymous with summer heat, and metal is a little clunky for after-dark occasions).
Together, this holy trinity of features creates a clean-cut appearance and silhouette that will enhance rather than detract, like a brasher, sportier model would, from your overall look.We’ve put together a shortlist of some of our favourites in this category, whittled down from hundreds of options to a select few, any of which won’t just pair gracefully with your new velvet jacket and evening fragrance, but, due to such ageless looks, will also tick way beyond your Christmas dos and into future job interviews, weddings and — if you can bear to part with it — onto the wrist of your next of kin. With that in mind, it’s time to get to it.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding
Inspired by the watches of the 1950s, the hands of the Vacheron Constsantin Patrimony Manual-Winding gently follow the curve of the dial. It's an extremely handsome and incredibly timeless watch with minimal fuss, and features a slim case, just 6.80 millimetres thick, and a solid back. Its manually-wound movement is stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva, a guarantee of excellence and reliability.
IWC Portofino Chronograph
A watch designed for kicking back on the Italian Riviera, the IWC Portofino takes its design references from the laid-back timepieces of the 1960s. It has sporty push-buttons and a simple chronograph displays, while a cobalt dial harks back to the ocean. The 42mm timepiece is secured by a black alligator leather strap, and it is powered by the impressive IWC 75320 calibre automatic self-winding movement.
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier
The classic! No one is bigger than the Cartier Tank, which is why it has landed on the wrists of everyone from Cary Grant and Clark Gable to Tyler, the Creator. The first Tank surfaced in 1917 when Cartier founder Monsieur Louis Cartier took inspiration from the design of a combat vehicle, and today it's stronger than ever. This Cartier Tank Louis Cartier has a red lacquer dial with golden hands, and is slightly larger than the OG timepiece, but stays relatively true to the 1917 design.
Chopard L.U.C XPS
Chopard's L.U.C XPS sits at the very top of Swiss watchmaking. Designed at the brand's Geneva and Fleurier workshops, the L.U.C XPS in 18-carat white gold is discreet and elegant in appearance, and comes with a thickness of 7.2 mm. Beneath the simple black dial beats a mechanical self-winding calibre with a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and a 65-hour power reserve, a sure fire guarantee of the Swiss watchmaker's precision and reliability.
Rolex Perpetual 1908
Made in house, the dial of the Rolex Perpetual 1908 reflects the watchmaker's commitment to the highest level of quality to achieve an impeccable, long-lasting result. The enamel dial is simple in design, while it is encased in a quality 18 carat gold bezel. It's a watch that will elevate any outfit in an instant, day or night.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute
The Reverso Tribute is an homage to the first Reverso born in 1931. Continually reinvented without compromising its identity, the trapezoidal applied indexes echo the form of the Dauphine hands, thus making for a totally modern interpretation of the original watch. The timepiece has a unique stainless steel case and a burgundy strap (specially designed by the famous Argentinian bootmaker Casa Fagliano) and dial.
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