A decade or two ago independent watchmakers were the preserve of a select group of collectors. In the last five to 10 years, however, several new watchmakers are drawing enthusiasts by the bus load. It’s easy to see why: the product is fantastic, often made in small numbers (fewer than 1,000 a year) to a high standard, with personality in abundance.
As a buyer, you also have an opportunity to get to know and connect with the founder who more often than not played a significant role in making or designing the watch for you.
The downside? Well, you’re usually not the only one to be interested, and unfortunately the wait can be lengthy (not the wait lists themselves – the actual production time). Primary market prices are also rising with many buyers being driven towards more vintage pieces, but a few independent watches can still be found on the secondary market.
With all this said, now is still a fascinating moment for independent watchmakers and collectors alike, and it will only get more exciting as the market for independent pieces grows. I’ve collated an edit of some of the boldest designs from a choice selection of my favourite independent makers, which are available in the current catalogue.
Richard Mille RM 67-02
RICHARD MILLE RM 67-02, £POA, richardmille.com
To me, the RM 67-02 is the RM to own. With a distinctive signature-style, tonneau-shaped case, it is also the thinnest and most compact model Richard Mille offers. This righteous celebration of technical materials is super light and gives the wearer that distinct rush of owning an RM. The model has been worn by a number of athletes across the years in competition (Lord knows how RM managed to convince them to do so) from the likes of Nafissatou Thiam who won her third Olympic gold in the women’s heptathlon this year, to Charles Leclerc at the Monaco Grand Prix.
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum
F.P. JOURNE Chronomètre Optimum, £POA, fpjourne.com
F.P. Journe produces around 800 watches a year and combines a distinct visual DNA with incredible watchmaking prowess. The Chronomètre Optimum is a master- piece of haute horlogerie. At its heart lies a unique dual-escapement system that combines a traditional lever escapement for the gear train with a remontoir d’égalité (constant force device) for the balance wheel. This ensures consistent energy delivery to the balance for exceptional timekeeping accuracy, all housed in a 40mm or 42mm case and available in platinum or red gold. Its elegant design, with a thin bezel and distinctive lugs, exemplifies the brand’s innovative spirit coupled with unwavering commitment to pushing the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking.
MB&F Legacy Machine 101
MB&F Legacy Machine 101, CHF 73,300, mbandf.com
Founded by Maximilian Büsser, MB&F is known for its avant garde approach to horology. The Legacy Machine 101, often abbreviated as LM101, is no exception. The timepiece represents a more classical take on MB&F’s typically futuristic designs, paying homage to traditional watchmaking while incorporating the brand’s signature creativity. Perhaps the most striking feature is its large, suspended balance wheel. This component, usually hidden inside the movement, is prominently displayed on the dial side, hovering above the timekeeping subdials. The result is a mesmerising visual effect, drawing the eye and showcasing the watch’s mechanical heart. MB&F recently sold a share of its business to Chanel – watch this space.
De Bethune Starry Seas
DE BETHUNE Starry Seas, £POA, debethune.ch
De Bethune is a watchmaker with a distinct design code, sporty feel on the wrist and deep astronomical inspiration. The De Bethune Starry Seas – an ‘entry level’ model and a new addition to the portfolio – is a masterpiece of horological artistry that combines all that we have come to expect from the brand encapsulated in one piece. A celestial tableau is created using a proprietary technique that involves heating the titanium to achieve various shades of blue, then carefully inlaying gold pins to represent stars. The result is a stunning, three-dimensional rendering of the night sky that seems to come alive when attached to one’s self. It’s as much a work of art as it is a precision instrument.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon
LAURENT FERRIER Classic Moon Silver, CHF 80,000, laurentferrier.ch
Known for its subdued, Patek-esque elegance of yesteryear, Laurent Ferrier recently launched the Classic Moon. The understated timepiece is available in two executions – blue and silver – and it was the latter that caught my eye at this year’s Watches & Wonders in Geneva. At its heart is a sophisticated moon phase complication, which is artfully integrated into the dial at 6 o’clock, providing both functional utility with a lumed finish and balanced design (as all Laurent Ferrier watches do). The silver surface is complemented by applied hour markers and assegai hands, both hallmarks of Laurent Ferrier’s refined aesthetic. Overall, the design represents a harmonious blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern refinement, appealing to discerning collectors who appreciate subtle sophistication in their timepieces.
This feature was taken from our Autumn 2024 issue. Read more about it here...
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