Words: Josh Lee
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Although it’s difficult to calculate how long it truly takes to become a specialist in something, after almost two centuries in the watchmaking industry, it’s safe to say that Longines, a brand continuously celebrated for its ability to bring both elegance and high-end mechanical movements to wristwear, is one of the elder statesmen in its field.
Since its inception, in St-Imier, Switzerland, in 1832, the timepiece manufacturer – named after the local moniker used for the land where its first factory stood – and its distinctive winged hourglass logo has dispersed itself across the globe (as well as the skies). It appears on personal wristwatches, instruments for pilots, and timekeeping equipment for international sports events. The label’s main draw has been its commitment to constantly improving its state-of-the-art movements.
Explorer Richard Byrd
This notion of perpetual innovation is perhaps most evident in its pioneering of the flyback function, a feature that, when developed in 1925 and patented 11 years later, gave pilots a speedy, practical way to time different stages of their flight. The result firmly cemented Longines’ reputation as a pioneer of navigational equipment.
Notably, in 1928, during his journey as the first man to fly over the South Pole, an expedition that stretched 800 miles from his ‘Little America’ base camp towards Antartica, Richard Byrd – equipped with a solar compass and Longines watches – credited his timepieces to the success of his feat.
This year, Longines has revealed two new models to its already distinguished line-up of designs. First up is the Longines Spirit Flyback, the latest addition to the Longines Spirit collection, a range that upholds the brand’s tradition of crafting precise instruments intended to be used by those seeking adventures in air, sea and on land.
This latest chronograph is crafted with the brand’s signature flyback function, the complication that, with a press of a pusher, instantly resets the watch’s timing from zero; is loaded with a power reserve of 68 hours; and is driven by a new exclusive Longines calibre, which features a silicon balance spring and is resistant to magnetism.
To view the latter feature, all one needs to do is turn the watch over and ogle at the transparent case back that reveals all the minutiae and intricacies within, including a personalised weight that’s engraved with a globe emblem – which represents the Longines Spirit collection – as well as the name ‘Longines Flyback.’
At the front, one will find a bi-directional bezel that’s elevated even further by a coloured ceramic insert with luminescent markers, and the Super-LumiNova®-coated bronze-shaded hands and numerals allow the time to be read in all circumstances. The dial comes in either black or blue sunray, and meticulous details, which include polished, engraved, satin and matt finishes, give the piece its distinguished, premium look.
The steel case, which measures 42mm, is given a versatile edge thanks to a trio of interchangeable bracelets – blue fabric, brown leather, and stainless steel – which are all fitted with a folding clasp made with a new micro-adjustment system that enhances fit and comfort.
Next comes the latest iteration of the Longines Spirit Zulu Time, a model first launched in 2022 at 42mm, and one which was defined by its use of multiple time zones. It's a detail, the brand says, that aimed to pay homage to the ‘world’s greatest pioneers on their legendary exploits.’ Building on the original, the 2023 edition is now created with a smaller, sleek 39mm case in stainless steel.
Dialling up the refined silhouette are a lug-to-lug measurement of 21mm. In terms of over-arching looks, the latest options come with a dial in either sandblasted anthracite, matte black or sunray blue, with a bezel with a coloured ceramic insert, and a date window at exactly 6 o’clock. Of the nine variations available, arguably the highlight is the piece distinctive for its 18k yellow-gold bezel and crown, both of which are beautifully complemented by a chocolate-brown ceramic insert and beige numerals. Meanwhile, the watch is also imbued with a throwback feel, courtesy of hands and Arabic numbers coated in ‘old radium’ Super-LumiNova®.
If wishing to switch things up, you can rotate between an interchangeable stainless-steel bracelet, an interchangeable brown leather strap made with contrasting cream stitching, or an interchangeable NATO strap in a brown hue unique to this timepiece.
A watch that straddles both tradition – thanks to its timeless aesthetic – and contemporary, innovative craft, its time zone display is powered by an exclusive Longines calibre, and due to a pair of anti-magnetic components, there is total resistance to fields of 600–800 gauss. Moreover, the hour hand can be adjusted separately from the GMT indicator, with additional time zones being read via the 24-hour hand and the bi-directional rotating bezel. A power reserve of 72 hours also means that the wearer can leave the timepiece at home for the duration of a long weekend and return to it still ticking.
Technically sound while still elegant and discreet on the wrist, Longines’s new models are angled to be your perfect companions for travel and adventure.
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