Why Cristal Rosé is a true unicorn Champagne
From the outset, Cristal Rosé stood apart thanks to an innovative approach to vinification known as ‘gentle infusion’ – here, we dive into its history
Pol Roger has its Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill. Laurent-Perrier has Grand Siècle. For Moët Hennessy, think Dom Pérignon. These are the ‘prestige cuvées’, a Champagne house’s ultimate bottlings. The original – and arguably most vaunted – prestige cuvée of all is surely Cristal.
As the creation of Louis Roederer, Cristal was first produced in 1876 as a commission for Tsar Alexander II of Russia. He stipulated that it be presented in a clear glass bottle so he could keep an eye on its contents (the Tsar was a man with many enemies; poisoning was an occupational hazard, as were, say, bombs). Today, the fizz’s signature orange cellophane wrap (introduced to protect the wine from light damage) is the ultimate party accoutrement.
There is, though, a Champagne that trumps even Cristal for wow factor; a cuvée too rare to be sprayed around VIP enclosures. During 20 years in the wine world, including a decade at Decanter magazine, I tasted it only once. First produced almost a century after its older brother, Cristal Rosé celebrated its 50th anniversary last year. And to mark the occasion, I got to taste six – yes, six – vintages of this unicorn wine.
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