Should a gentleman wear a double-breasted jacket?
In the realm of men’s tailoring, it can be difficult to mix things up; deviating from the approved colour palette can be costly and too many accessories detracts from the seriousness. By now your closet should be stacked with single-breasted, two-button suits – they’re the backbone of everyman’s formal wardrobe after all. That saying, one means of adding a touch of flair, that will raise eyebrows for all the right reasons, is by freshening things up with a double-breasted jacket.
This more daring cut has enjoyed some time in the sartorial spotlight of late. Rising to prominence a few years ago, it’s now fully established as a suitable alternative for mixing up your tailoring. Bury any preconceptions you’ve got of a double-breast being the reserve of the guffawing yacht club members and the ageing south of France set. They’ve infiltrated the mainland, in a smarter, more put-together guise. Forget the gold, anchor-etched buttons – the current DB is smart, sophisticated and slick. Stick to four to six buttons, two to fasten and avoid any evocations of less-than-stylish bygone eras with anything that buttons too low.
There are a few other things you need to be aware of if you’re trading the single out and opting for a double; nobody said this was going to be easy. The first is the cut, take it to a tailor and have it tapered to your torso for a perfect fit. It should nip in at the waist to bring your shoulders to prominence, creating a flattering v-shaped appearance.
If you’re a shorter guy, this cut may not be for you. Whilst anyone can wear a double-breasted blazer and look great, they certainly look best on a taller gent. But, whether you’re short, tall or in between, the jacket should not extend too far below the belt. Whilst a standard suit jacket can cover your behind, the modern DB is shorter and shouldn’t be extending too far below your crotch.
Jackets we recommend:
Become a Gentleman’s Journal Member?
Like the Gentleman’s Journal? Why not join the Clubhouse, a special kind of private club where members receive offers and experiences from hand-picked, premium brands. You will also receive invites to exclusive events, the quarterly print magazine delivered directly to your door and your own membership card.
Further reading
Nick Wakeman, founder of Studio Nicholson, on kickstarting her brand as a one woman show
Filippo Pignatti, founder of Gentleman's Gram, shares his secret style codes
